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Mash & Burn Co. Unnecessarily well-made
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Project 004

Standard Issue Jean

A no-nonsense jean built around fabric, fit, and patience.

Status
In Progress
Category
Other
Material
Kuroki black selvedge denim, 11.5 oz
Denim
11.5 oz black selvedge (Kuroki)
Hardware
Copper Rivets
Build Stage
Fit Tuning
Made In
Raleigh, NC

How I measure

Ask about this project

Craft & Heritage

Traditional techniques.
Honest materials.
Timeless methods.

Attention to Detail

The little things
make the whole.

Made by Hand

Built in small batches
with purpose.

Built to Last

Workwear that wears in,
not out.

The story

The Standard Issue Jean is my answer to denim that tries too hard.

The fabric does the work here: 14oz selvedge denim with enough structure to last and enough give to become personal over time.

This project is still being tuned at the bench. Fit first, then details.

Mash & Burn Co.

Workshop Verdict

Worth theExtra Stitch

Project 004 / Fit Tuning

Standard Issue Jean

Kuroki black selvedge denim, 11.5 oz

Other

Design intent

Built around a reason.

Make denim that feels ordinary in the best possible way.

Prioritize fit, fabric behavior, and long-term wear over novelty.

Materials & construction

Bought from selvage.de Cloth: Woven by KurokiPocketing: Woven by Nihon Menpu

Made here cut and sewn on the bench · Sourced a stock component from a supplier · Commissioned made elsewhere to the workshop's design.

Construction Flat-felled seamThe selvedge outseamButton flyYokeReinforcement and bar tacksPatch pocketsTopstitchingHems

About the materials SelvedgeFabric weightWarp, weft and twillRaw denimPocketingThreadHardwareLeather

Care & wear

How it will change.

Wash cold when needed. Hang dry.

  • Washing denim There is no single rule. What washing does to a raw denim, what to expect the first time, and the habits that keep a pair in shape.
  • Shrinkage and relaxation Cloth gets smaller when it is washed and bigger when it is worn. How much, where, and how the pattern accounts for it.
  • Fading and black denim Indigo fades to white where it creases; black fades to grey everywhere. Why they age differently, and what to expect from each.
  • Leather patina Vegetable-tanned leather darkens, marks and softens with handling. What is happening, what to do, and what to leave alone.
  • Repairs and visible mending What wears first, why early repairs are small ones, and why a repair does not have to hide.